Penedès this weekend: Phylloxera Festival in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia (Barcelona) and more important things…

If you - as I am -, are committed to exploring the popular culture of Catalonia, you cannot allow yourself to have “blank spots” close to where you live. But that is what I have and – come Monday – that is what I will continue to have if we talk about the main event in Penedès this weekend: the Phylloxera Festival in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia (Alt Penedès), September 7-8.

But my excuse this time is quite legitimate. The reason why I cannot go is the very same Catalan popular culture. I mean, after having been an active member of the human tower builders Bordegassos de Vilanova for three years by now, I of course cannot miss one of our most high profile exhibitions this year (Saturday, September 8 at 19:00; in front of the Cathedral of Barcelona). And since I will go, I of course cannot skip the Friday rehearsal…

Next year in Sant Sadurní d'Anoia! Next year I will dress up in yellow, dance under the fire of the phylloxera monsters and drink cava all night…

So, what else can you do out here Friday-Sunday, September 7-8, except for relaxing our beaches?

Garraf (find here the full agenda) is the comarca to go to if you are a cava and wine tourist, since there you find wine harvest festivals (festa de la verema) in Sitges and Cubelles. And if you like to watch people peforming beach sports, Vilanova i la Geltrú hosts a tambeach tournament.

Baix Penedès (find here the full agenda) and, more precisely, Calafell is your place if you like music from the 50-ies, since they hold a major Rock-A-Billy festival. In sharp contrast, in El Vendrell they organize a literary guided tour through the town.

Anoia (find here the full agenda) has a on-going town festival – Festa Major de Vilanova del Camí – which is also the only town in Penedès to offer a human tower exhibition this weekend; local Moixiganguers d’Igualada challenge their guests Castellers de Terrassa and Xicots de Vilafranca.

Alt Penedès (find here the full agenda), finally, does not only offer the Phylloxera Festival, but also jazz and havaneres concerts in Vilafranca del Penedès and guided tours in many of  the towns.

As you see – Penedès is a lot more than cava and wine!

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Attention: Next week, Tuesday September 11, is a public holiday when we celebrate the National Day of Catalonia. For that reason, there will be human tower exhibitions in Cubelles (Garraf), Els Hostalets de Pierola (Anoia) and Vilafranca del Penedès (Alt Penedès).

In the evening of September 10, many towns out here will see torch marches for an independent Catalonia.

In the late afternoon September 11, however, we can expect the streets of Penedès to be unusually calm, since at 18:00 there will be a big demonstration around the street passeig de Gràcia in Barcelona. You will see different slogans, but I guess that “Catalonia – the next state in Europe” (“Catalunya, proper estat d’Europa”) will be the one to attract most international attention.

ENG: Recommendations on What to See During la Mercè; part 2

It is easy to get lost in the rich program of the Festa de la Mercè, so for those interested in popular culture, I have made a list of recommendations. The first part, covering the days September 19-22, can be found in this earlier entry and here follow my comments on the last two days. The official program of la Mercè continues throughout next weekend as well, but the traditional part culminates and ends on the day of la Mercè, September 24.

The text within brackets in Catalan links you to the organisers’ road descriptions.

Tuesday, September 23

If you still have not seen how happily above all senior Catalans join the sardana dance, you can do so at 18.00 in the Plaça de Sant Jaume (Ballada de sardanes amb la Cobla la Principal de la Bisbal).

The background to the xambanga is said to be that the geganters – those who maintain and dance inside the giants – wanted some fun when transporting their figures to the parades and therefore started to put fancy dresses on them. This has since developed into a separate parade (Xambanga de Gegants), the craziest one during la Mercè. It starts from Plaça Àngels at 21.30 and goes through C/ Pintor Fortuny, the Rambla and C/ Ferran in order to finish at Plaça Sant Jaume at 23.00.

Wednesday, September 24 – la Diada de la Mercè

If you live or stay in the Barri Gòtic, on the day of la Mercè you risk being woken up early by people playing gralles (Matinades de grallers). The gralla is a Catalan wind instrument with a unique sound which my whole family has learned to love.

The blunderbuss shooters – easily recognised in their historical clothes and very Catalan barretines – were originally impoverished feudal lords turned bandits. They are being celebrated since many people did not consider them criminals but rather political heros. At 10.00 groups of them march in a noisy gala parade (Galejada trabucaire) from the Avinguda del Catedral to Plaça Sant Jaume.

Tradition has it that in the 17th century, the Virgin of la Mercè listened to the prayers of the Barcelona citizens and saved the city from a plague of locusts. The mass celebrated on her day, at 10.30 in the parish of the Blessed Virgin la Mercè (Missa Concelebrada a la Basílica de la Mercè), is one of few elements which remind us about the religious origin of the festa major tradition.

At 11.00, giants and nans perform dances in Plaça Sant Jaume (Matí de gegants: VII Mostra de balls de gegants) and then walk in a parade via the Rambla and the carrers Bonsuccés Elisabets and Montalegre to Pati Manning. At 12.15 in the Plaça de Sant Jaume, as soon as the mayor comes out on the balcony of the town hall, the eagle of Barcelona will dance, surrounded by giants (Ball de l'Àliga i dels Gegants de la Ciutat). After this, the mayor and other local politicians walk in a parade towards the Palau de la Virreina in the Rambla together with an entourage of dancers and fantastic figures (Seguici d'Autoritats).

At 12.30, in the Plaça de Sant Jaume five groups of castellers from different parts of Barcelona start assembling typically Catalan human towers (Diada castellera amb les colles locals).

From 18.00 until 19.30, a parade will move through the centre, from Plaça Universitat, via C/ Pelai, the Rambla, Plaça Sant Jaume and Via Laietana, to the Plaça de la Catedral (Cavalcada de la Mercè). Do not get scared away by the fact that the theme of the parade is ‘the European Year of Intercultural Dialogue’ – all short performances will be carried out by traditional giants, nans and other fictitious figures.

At 19.00, there will be sardana dancing in the Plaça de la Mercè (Sardanes amb la Cobla Ciutat de Girona).

At 21.00, a concert by a traditional Catalan cobla will be held in the parish of the Blessed Virgin la Mercè (Concert amb la Cobla de Sant Jordi).

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N.B. The links to address descriptions are removed once the activity has taken place ('aquest acte està caducat', in Catalan).

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Technorati tags: Barcelona, Catalonia, Festa

Love and War in Barcelona / Curtmetratges al MACBA

During this spring, MACBA, Barcelona’s Museum of Contemporary Art, has shown opera films under the umbrella name Petites històries del Cinema. The program is centred around short films which can appeal to children, and coming Saturday, May 24 at 17.30, will be the last opportunity to experience this.

Among others, what I understand to be two classic cartoons - Rabbit of Seville (1950) and What’s Opera Doc (1957) - will be presented. Both were made by Chuck Jones as a parodies on typical opera themes. However, the highlight will be Love and War by Fredrik Emilson, a Swedish friend of mine. The work proves his skills in several disciplines – he wrote the screenplay, music and libretto but then also directed the film. If you download his trailer you will understand why I am convinced that these will be the most touching 14 minutes of the evening.

All in all, the event is expected to take less than an hour. Even our small children will hopefully be able to stay calm that long.
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Sí, sí, el dia d’entrada lliure als museus era el diumenge passat, però encara que calgui pagar, el dissabte que ve (dia 24 a les 17.30) us recomano asistir a la última part del programa Petites histories del Cinema - una mostra de cutrmetratges d’opera més o menys indicats per als nens – al Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona.

Una pel·lícula que em fa molta il·lusió de finalment poder veure, és el Love and War fet pel suec Fredrik Emilson, un bon amic meu. “Òpera delirant composta i animada pel mateix autor. Una conilleta i un ós s'enamoren, però un conflicte bèl·lic s'interposa en la relació” és com MACBA presenta la seva obra. Descargueu-ne el tràiler i ja veureu perquè sóc tan segur que ell nos presentarà amb els moments més commovedors de tota la tarda. Vegem-nos allà. No us hi passeu.